I have the same problem – don’t d yet u find a solution? And how much did it cost if you were able to fix it?

You’re right. More than likely, PH Jr. is enjoying the false high of thinking that “treating his vehicle” to premium fuel is actually working. If that were true, then that manufacturer would tell owners to use premium fuel. What manufacturer would allow their vehicle to be driven with driving problems that could be solved simply by using a higher octane fuel? NONE of them, because it would cost them NOTHING to let their customers know, yet would cost them a new future sale if the owner hates how the vehicle runs. You made the right assessment…it’s not the octane.

That’s an interesting problem. The jerking and loss of power sounds like maybe not all cylinders are firing. Check for codes and see if you have one that says “Cylinder X Misfire”, where X is a cylinder number. That would be a great place to start.

When you put new plugs on, make sure you got the firing order correct. Make sure all spark plugs were torqued correctly inside the head. If you pull each of the spark plugs, see if any of them look wet or burnt. This may give you a clue as to what is going on.

The reason I don’t suspect a transmission issue is because you said the issue is happening while you are standing in a parking lot, if I’m understanding correctly. If that is not the case, let me know.

I’m not sure I understand. Are you saying the jerking occurs when you hit 3,000 RPM?

First I’d scan for codes to see if that gives you any indication of the issue right away. If there are no codes, check the transmission fluid. If it feels like the car is slipping or losing power, it could be a transmission issue.

I don’t know. This will probably require a mechanic to look at the car and give you an accurate diagnosis. The idle air control valve was my first thought for the issues when the car is not in motion, but the idle air control valve shouldn’t affect the car while it’s moving. Could be an issue with one of the accessory pulleys or belts too I suppose, or maybe even something inside the engine.

Hi I have a 1998 Honda Civic coupe dx my car keeps jerking at a speed to 30mph to 40mph and my car does not pick up the speed until about a good 20mins and still doesn’t accelerate like it’s supposed to and cuts off in the middle of driving my car I put a new radiator in and I put new spark plugs in it and it just started to act like that after I drive from Marion to Columbus I got there and I went in the store and come back out try to start it it started but cut back off then I started it and I put it in reverse remind you my whole car is jumping engine is jumping crazy before i got there it was fine and it was fine when I purchase it 2 weeks ago then outta nowhere it’s been acting like now and only had my car for 3 weeks now

I have a 98 Honda Accord while accelerating the car if I thorttle it reach 3 it will start jerking pls what is the problem or which sensor is the causing

This problem can only be rectified by using the appropriate DENSO (OEM Supplier) Sensor for the vehicle.

This is so because the ohms or resistance, the voltage and the signal from the sensor all have to be at the correct Nissan Specifications to be recognized and accepted by the Nissan Engine Control Modules.

I’ve tested over 9 aftermarket brands for replacement CKP sensors from accessible online and regular auto parts stores and found the DENSO Sensors to be the only ones to work properly on NISSANS. The correct sensors can be recognized with the imprints similar to ” A29-662 L41 SGI B002 1707A4″. That imprint is the correct sensor any Nissan with a VQ35DE Engine.