Comments on: 5 Symptoms of a Bad Car A/C Condenser (and Replacement Cost)

By: Greenleaf Dallas

Greenleaf Dallas — Tue, 23 Nov 2021 04:25:11 +0000

My car has been smelling a little different from AC for the last few days. After reading your article, I am sure that it is due to some problem of car AC condenser. Does your AC Unit make slight humming noises? Your condenser unit has a run relay in it that may be causing your slight hum noise. The low voltage control transformer in the furnace also powers the Run relay in the condenser. Try turning off the furnace power either by a local switch by the furnace or the breaker. Then check the hum. If it is gone you may have a bad thermostat. It could be causing some AC voltage leaking thru it causing it to hum but not enough voltage to pull in the relay turning on the condenser.

By: John Anderson

John Anderson — Fri, 01 Oct 2021 12:49:57 +0000

I have changed the cabin filter, put a new condenser as the gas was cleaking out as it was pretty poor condition, on the pump clutch engages without a problem and turns as it should after second gas refill to manufacturers spec, its still not cold, the pipes coming from the pump arent cold like i would think they would…. only thing i can think of is changing the switch that sits on the condenser but Im sure that only turns the pump on or off which is happening anyway… anything else anyone can think of… its a low31000 miles Astra 1.8 sri.

By: Linda

Linda — Tue, 24 Aug 2021 21:35:23 +0000

I have had a leak (2005 Buick Century)supposedly fixed. Only blows cool for about 2 weeks when wires (?) are manuvered. I am told it is the condenser. It blows very nicely. Help. Thank you.

By: Clover Rayner

Clover Rayner — Thu, 05 Aug 2021 16:22:23 +0000

In the old days having A/C (Air Conditioning System) in a vehicle was considered a luxury. But in the modern era, it is a basic facility that every auto manufacture gives with their vehicle to customers. The condenser in the air conditioner is a very vital component in the process of air-drying and air-cooling. If something bad happens to the condenser of the air conditioner then it will not work effectively, especially in the summer season.

By: Jonas

Jonas — Tue, 06 Jul 2021 04:35:22 +0000

In reply to Corolla Joe. I have the same problem. It could be a clogged and/or dirty condenser. It could also be poor airflow (fans) or low refrigerant. That's pretty much all it could be if it's cold while driving. Too much oil or air in the system will have the same effect as low refrigerant and the condenser won't dissipate heat as well. If the low side pressure looks normal and the high side pressure is too high, it's probably condenser related.

By: Scott

Scott — Fri, 04 Jun 2021 23:41:29 +0000

In reply to Corolla Joe. Ac was blowing warmer air and mechanic said it was the compressor, $1;000 later still blowing warm air. Too the car back in they said it’s the condenser, replace that at a $1,000. I pick up car on Monday hopefully it’s fixed. Can they tell if the problem from the AC unit is the condenser or compressor in the beginning of diagnosing it?

By: Adetola Akintonde

Adetola Akintonde — Tue, 27 Oct 2020 12:37:07 +0000

You have really done well, your explanation is so comprehensive and I’m able to learn a lot from it. More grease to your elbow brother.

By: Corolla Joe

Corolla Joe — Fri, 07 Aug 2020 06:45:38 +0000

My AC cools better when the car is moving fast, but when it’s on idle it’s almost warm air flowing out of the cabin vents, could this be a problem with condenser not being efficient enough ?

By: Chazz

Chazz — Wed, 29 Jul 2020 01:54:59 +0000

Maybe, but I would check the freon. If the driver side vents are cold and passenger side vents are warm or not as cold your low on freon. I had this issue already.

By: IsItHotInHere?

IsItHotInHere? — Sat, 11 Jul 2020 21:31:08 +0000

Would a partially blocked condenser cause the vents to blow two different temperatures? I’ve already checked all the blend actuators and they are functioning as intended. The only other symptom is that the low pressure side of the system sees a significant pressure spike when the compressor engages. I didnt note the exact pressures involved, but the gauge shot into the red every time the compressor would run and as soon as it did the compressor would disengage. I assume to protect the system. I already assume I’ll need to have the whole thing professionally diagnosed and repaired, but before I ever set foot into a shop I like to be armed with as much information as possible.